The Icefields Parkway connects Banff in the south to Jasper in the north. With a name like ‘Icefields,’ we knew the views would be spectacular. Also, the 144 mile passage continually makes the list of 10 most scenic drives in the world. Yes, the world. Of course, Siesta Key in our Florida backyard continually makes the list of 10 best beaches in the US. When we go to the beach, we always go to our local fave, Holmes Beach on Anna Maria Island even though we could just as easily go to Siesta Key. Basically, the ’10 Best’ formula is crack clickbait and it’s what drives must-visit mentality that leads to overcrowding and obsessive picture taking. With that bit of jaded optimism running through our head, we got an early start out of Lake Louise.
The Ice Princess was in a mood that day. Threatening skies roiled with dark clouds. Sheets of rain pelted Boss, then cleared to reveal jagged glacier streaked cliffs with their peaks reaching into the clouds. We’ve crossed mountain ranges before, but the sheer length and wild nature of this part of the Rockies is gawkable. Get gas before you start. With the exception of one totem pole welcoming ‘village’ in the middle, the region is unoccupied. It’s two Canadian National Parks backing up to each other, Banff south, and Jasper North. As we passed signs for rustic, remote, back country campsites, it made us long for the days when we could hike for miles into the wilderness to find hidden waterfalls and neon lakes. Then we adjusted the climate controls in Boss and turned up 70’s on 7 on Sirius radio.
If you happen to be at that time of life where sitting but still driving hair pin turns up to a mountain pass is just about right on the active/passive scale, then this is the drive for you. We vote it stay on the top 10 list. The Ice Princess is not worried about falling off the list because she has a trick up her sleeve. Just after entering Jasper, the enormous Athabasca Glacier reaches down from the peaks and touches the road; if it were 1950. Since we have done such a good job of melting ice these past 70 years, the glacier toe has receded to make room for a parking lot. Very considerate given the million RVs on the road that Father’s Day Sunday, all wanting to park and see the glacier.
The Columbia Discovery Center sits on top of a moraine that was pushed into a pile by the glacier during the last little ice age in the 1400s. On the first three floors you can discover how to order a Starbucks, book a ride on a fake glacial-mobile, or buy a 30 dollar hamburger with a view of Athabasca. Relegated to the basement, Canada Parks has a beautiful presentation of art and science about the glacier. It’s a mixed use facility. We spent all of our time in the basement.
To soak in the glacial vibe, we parked at the high water mark of the glacier toe just 70 years prior. From there we had an excellent view of the massive ice flow, along with a high speed internet link to a bunch of satellites overhead, two laptops posting a blog, and lunch. Good thing we attended the Dali exhibit it St. Pete and understood the definition of surreal.
The Athabasca also lends its name to a raging river running alongside the Parkway where its massive flow of glacial melt smashes over a boulder field that can be viewed from an architectural collection of bridged walkways. Kudos Parks Canada. That’s how you do it! Eventually, and we do mean eventually, because the Ice Princess is one long movie of epic scenes, the forest turns from lush to charred from the expansive fire that wiped out Jasper in 2024.
Camping outside downtown Jasper, Whistlers campground was fire cleared and is busy recovering. From a campers perspective, the recovery is awesome. The open expanse that was once a forest of tall pines now provides 360 views of the Rocky ranges. The recovery also includes some of the nicest new bath houses that we have ever seen. Not exactly a natural wonder, but is pretty wonderful nonetheless.
Unlike Banff, Jasper is fun-sized. There are plenty of establishments to dine, drink and shop and there are plenty of tourists but not so many that you don’t feel like you could count them if you had to. We found it a perfect laundry/library kind of place. Even better, the library housed the local art collective and the laundry doubled as an art supply store. Genius!
Make no mistake, the region is still crowded but more like Disney World on a rainy day rather than Spring Break. If the Arctic is the goal, Banff/Jasper was a means to an end. Can you find amazing anymore without crowds? It is probably just the price one has to pay. Sheric definitely began as a hunt for National Park stickers, but transitioned to more remote places like Monuments, State Parks, and eventually BLM as time progressed. Banff and to a lesser extent, Jasper are more early Sheric than later. The region is incredible but hard to call your own special place when you have to share it with so many others.
